Forums / Gun Discussion / Cleaning and lubrication for AR types

Lucas Gun Oil.the same people who make the engine oil.good shit!recommended by me

GP I've used Lucas products in my boats before and have had good luck with them, I did not know they made gun oil, Thanks.

the best is CLP its what the GOV uses. it is made by "break free" it cleans lubricates and protects. The thing about lubing AR style is you only want a thin coat... also DO NOT lubricate any parts of your gas system to include your tube and key. if you lubricate these parts they will "gum" up and you will have to replace them more frequently...

arent you supposed to put any lube there at all because it can damage the chrome lining?

i am not sure that you are talking bout Chrome... (II have sent a M2HB in to get re-parkerized and it came back chromed... worst experience of my life...) but inside the buffer graphite, standard lube or copper would work... operator maintenance normally does not even touch that... it is not as crucial as most think...

the stiffer the spring the better when you come to match shooting, that being said if you have too stiff of a spring the gun will not recoil right...

the whole reason and idea of chrome bores is the fact that corrosive ammo and lack of cleaning is not so much of an issue with them.the chrome prevents corrosion from bad primers and lack of getting off your ass and cleaning that weapon.not saying that it is an open ticket to laziness but in Eastern Bloc stuff it lets you slide a bit.

yea... but he is talking about his but stock with buffer assembly... that is the lower receiver... not the upper...

the primers has nothing to do with bad corrosion in the bores...

chrome lined barrels do extend the life of the barrel.... that is the main purpose of it. .

Here's a good video on lubricating an AR, rarely if at all do you find corrosive 5.56x45/223 ammo. The reason for chrome lined barrels in AR and many others is to extend the life of the barrel.Corrosive ammunition usually has salts in the primer or as an ingredient in the powder. Most mil-surp and older ammunition is corrosive but it's a good idea to think ALL mil-surp is corrosive. If not cleaned properly it can cause corrosion in the Non-Chrome bore and could destory a barrel in a day. Regular solvent WILL NOT remove these salts, you have to use something water based or special solvents meant to remove this stuff. It's best to clean it as soon as you can after shooting when using corrosive ammo. Windex on wet patches works but I usually take really hot water and a turkey baster and blast hot watert down the bore a dozen or so times, run wet water patches and then a bunch of dry patches. More thoughough but I don't like to take a chance like that. Take apart the bolt and wash the parts with hot water. Do this before regular cleaning with solvent and be sure to dry the parts as much as possible off the bolt parts and oil when your done. It's also a good idea to check the gun after a couple days to look for rust spots in the barrel and on the bolt parts. Non-corrosive means it won't corrode your gun if you don't clean it right away. Chrome lined bores do have some resistance to the salts but it's still a good idea to clean with water.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g&playnext_from=TL&videos=_Tb1o...