Aluma-Hyde - Has anybody used this? Looks like an answer for home refinishing

Aluma-Hyde - Has anybody used this? Looks like an answer for home refinishing

ALUMA-HYDE® II
Mfr:BROWNELLS
Price:$11.95 - $13.99

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Durable Epoxy Base Paint Withstands Bore Cleaners & Solvents
The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethelyene. Today’s new family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Matte finishes are available in Parkerizing Gray (medium gray), Dark Parkerizing Gray (medium dark), Stainless Steel Gray (light), Matte Ruger Gray closely matches the factory color but reduces reflections, Earth Brown, Matte Clear, O.D. Green for creating camo pattern stocks, Desert Tan (light, desert-tan sand), Coyote (light, gray-brown) and the original favorite, Matte Black. To compliment the matte finishes, Semi-Gloss Black, Gloss Ruger Gray closely matches the factory color and shine. Gloss Clear help expand the overall applications of this time- and money-saving product. We like the Matte Black color for refinishing those used AR-15 buttstocks and handguards you pick up when building a parts gun, knock-around “truck” guns and, of course, anodized parts.

Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Here’s the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90? F.; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but don’t wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until it’s fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90? F. works fine) past the part. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

6 Comments

4 years 44 weeks ago, 1:22 PM

Anonymous

aluma hyde

works fine but watch what solvents or cleaners you use on it.

4 years 44 weeks ago, 3:45 PM

Anonymous

speakin of which

I got there 1911 catalog this morning, lots of parts accsessories and holsters for custom and standard 1911's.

4 years 44 weeks ago, 3:46 PM

Anonymous

no snaks

you dont want to use Aluma Hyde to paint your cousins name on the overpass

4 years 44 weeks ago, 7:14 PM

zx12rmike

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greasy, comedy, are you feeling better?

"We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home" Thomas Jefferson
4 years 44 weeks ago, 3:49 PM

Anonymous

??????????

???????

4 years 29 weeks ago, 5:43 PM

ecaman

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Something to consider

Aluma-Hyde is a good product, but it has its limitations, as Greasy mentioned. It it not considered a true "epoxy" paint, i.e., a 2-component formulation. It is not an epoxy resin (Part A) reacted with an amine-functional curing agent (Part B), which cures by chemical reaction, and can form a film with outstanding chemical resistance and toughness. Aluma-Hyde is a single component epoxy ester based formulation wherein an epoxy resin has been reacted into an alkyd formula to form the resinous, curing vehicle. It dries ("cures") by reaction with atmospheric oxygen, exactly as does an alkyd paint, or linseed oil (or other oil based resins). It has limited solvent resistance, regardless of any advertising hype. It does not have the toughness / resistance to mechanical damage of a 2-component formulation. It is not, however, a "junk" formulation, if one knows its limitations and does not expect more of it than it can give.

If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man. (Mark Twain).
samD's picture
Posted by: samD
4 years 44 weeks ago
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3,441
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