The quality of this gun is simply amazing. It actually has fewer machine marks than my Kimber had. Plus having kids the lockable hammer is a feature that I really like. I keep all my guns locked up but this is just and added safety feature that I appreciate. It shoots amazing with more accuracy, which I contribute to the lower recoil of the steel vs aluminum frame and 3" vs 5" barrel. Yes I do admit that I probably would have liked the Kimber Fullsized steel frame but the more I think about it, the price is unrealistic for me. Not knocking Kimber in anyway but for me it is the best choice.
Can't tell you how right that trade is.. I don't want to knock Kimbers, but i've never been a big fan of their pricing.. The Tauras on the other hand is perfect out of box, and i know how you feel on the felt recoil thing, years ago i went from a light weight Cdr to a full sized... what a diffrence..
We have a couple of P-22's as well..their in my pics.. Put the smaller palm swell on the wifes, and she loves it.. For what it's worth on the Walthers.. both of ours required a couple magazines before they ran right.. Odd, but same story with both of them.. I started a little disapointed on mine, then after 20 or 30 rounds ran perfect, and the same story with the wifes.. both are great and flawless now, but since they still have an ocasional hickup with lead it's stingers or yellowjackets..
May go with a glock just to see what the fuss is about and to either eliminate or decide whether I like them or not. I have shot them before but still can't decide whether or not I want one. Then it will be on to a good quality AR-15, then and AK, then ???????? But plans can always change depending on what deals I come across.
good trade indeed, I had confidence that you would like it, I have never had a failure from day one from any of my Taurus's, not even due to ammo, lucky huh? I use a slight amount of STA-LUBE SL3190 red ep grease on the bolt carriers and slides in my semi auto pistols and rifles, it doesn't degrade as fast as every gun oil that I have tried, if you are shooting a lot of rounds, I feel it is a benefit to keeping it cycling correctly.
On the Walther, as Greg says, my PPS was a disappointment until I had about 200~ rounds through it, I was 'hanging my head' as I just spent 'six bills' on a CCW piece that I really didn't think that I could depend on (at the time), but now it functions flawlessly, only one FTF due to a bad primer...
Hamp said "I use a slight amount of STA-LUBE SL3190 red ep grease on the bolt carriers and slides in my semi auto pistols and rifles, it doesn't degrade as fast as every gun oil that I have tried"
We've never talked about how much oil to keep on a 1911.. wet or dry.. huh, huh..
yeah i know, im a sick puppy... night dudes, see ya "non" sleepers around 12 mt..
taking a nap? lol
I only use it on the bolt's and slides, Lucas gun oil in the trigger group and firing pin/striker, works well, even in the desert. I thought about powdered graphite (I have a bunch) but I am just not sure that I want to subject fairly expensive weapons to that test at my expense.
One of these days we'll be old too, sad huh? LOL!!!!!
I'm very cautious about what I use in my guns and even more about what I put in my car. My bro-in-law swore by an additive he constantly dumped into his gas and oil. Ended up smoking the engine, it was so gummed up the mechanic that took it apart said he'd never even heard of one that bad.
You ever hear of that happening?
I have dealt with most of them, slick50, Rislone, Lucas, Sea foam (one of the best IMO) Johnson chem. etc over the years but none took out an engine.....pick your least favorite gun and follow my lead and get back to me, I assure you that it is 'battle tested' and good for the budget. I can imagine someone around here recommending some space age polymer paste which will handle 'reentry' from orbit at $900 an ounce, but if on a budget, try the EP grease, it won't hurt your firearm.
I just looked at all the followup posts on this thread, humm. Lots of favorites.
For me, I still think Lubriplate is a good choice, I used it on 20MM cannons and on my 1911s. Here's the blurb from Brownell's:
The Original Military Grease For Semi-Auto Rifles
Selected by the U.S. Military to lubricate M1 Garand and M14 battle rifles. A waterproof blend of mineral oil, calcium and zinc oxide that has a high affinity for metal so it stays put in all weather conditions, and lubricates even after the carrier begins to break down.
130-A MIL. SPEC. GREASE
What ya think?
We machine a lot of graphite at work and even though it is a great lubricant it is also VERY abrasive. The CNC mill that we machine it on is extremely loose and worn out due to the graphite dust wearing parts out when it got between them. Now it does have a lot more to do with the weight of the machine pushing on the graphite but I'd be afraid of that on the gun. I also mechanic on the side and I have seen people have to replace door locks on their vehicles because they regularly lubed their locks with the graphite powder or liquid graphite. You could also look at their key and see how much wear it had on it compared to keys and door locks that were much older than the ones worn out.
that have a slight amount of graphite in there to help add lubricant when the oil dries out or wears off. Something like that I might consider but the graphite doesn't do much of anything until the oil is gone from what I understand. But then again I have been completely wrong with things before so graphite might be great for guns. I, like you, am too concerned about trying it out on one of my weapons.
I'm with you on the aluminum and moving parts. The Taurus and boot sound like you made out pretty darn good!
Lubricants. hmm, I generaly stick with anything that has "gun oil" on it somewhere. I did just buy an arisol can of white lithium for the key lock on the tailgate of the avalanche (that's another story) and plan on trying it on the 1911 by spraying on a rag and wiping the rails. I sure aint gonna spray it in the hammer well or trigger area! Graphite just seems like a fine dust or powder to me which is plentiful in the TX panhandle. Trevor can vouch for that. I'd shy away from it.
am thinking of an extreme desert environment (Iraq, Afpak) where you have a lot of dust and dirt blowing around, a 'dry' lubricant would be advantageous as all of that shit wouldn't stick to it so much as with oil and grease, just a thought.
What about a dry silicone spray ?
Ive used it on many machine parts with good luck.
Actually i can't say i've ever used it on guns, but bet i have, use it on just about every thing else, and have a new use..Don't know where i got this, but told you can use it like eithor (sp busted, this should be fun for all)..Anyway.. have you guys tried this.. told you can shoot it into the intake manifold and great cold start aid..
gregs not responsible for subi engine replacements (woke up hamp).. Hey whats up with lumpy, you still have it, or get an offer you couldn't pass up..
Dust and Grit Magnet ...
Silicone Sprays work better because they do not stay liquid so they do not collect abrasives.
I've actually been thinking of trying out soaking the rails on one of my CZ's in Slick 50. Just to see what kind of results I get with it. My wife drove her car 20 miles without oil one time after having Slick put in at the last Oil change.
The engine locked up after that, but, it did make it home. Then it was towed back to the damn Dealers Service Dept. Then I got a new truck at a huge discount...
dumb ass line mechanic was working on four cars at one time. He pulled the drain plug on my wifes car, went to another and worked on it, went to another and worked on that, went to lunch, worked on another. Someone else needed the Oil drain can and took it out from under the car, he came back to the car hours later, didn't see the Drain Can and lowered the car thinking he had put the plug back in and put oil in it. My wife showed up and they got her car and she drove off...
Maher Chevrolet, stay away from them....
But, that Slick 50 did a hell of a job allowing her to drive 20 miles without any oil in the car before ceasing up...
until the oil pressure in the 'hydraulic lifters, cam followers etc' goes away and all of the sudden you have no valve train, engine stops, period! Anyhoo, as far as firearms lubricity , I have no idea....lol, not with my weapons!
maybe you've run into failing.. don't know, but I do know it did as I stated...
It also happens that what took place is exactly what put me into my 1997 Suburban 4x4 for $1500.00 in 2000.
evening all.. have no idea who's on yet so blanket hola to all my buds.. I get my oil free.. Serious.. Don't ask me how this works, im really not sure, but i have a LOT of these small packets of oil, you guys have seen the little ketsup size packets of oil.. I swear i don't swipe them, some show up when the son-n-laws come up.. maybe they multiply or something.. all i know is i have a bunch of these things, and never have to buy oil.. Then i seem to get a lot of them for Christmas and bdays.. What i've come to use the most or the hoppies wipes.. Good stuff.. Then again free so even better.
Dust really clung to it and that was not a good thing.i use wdd40,some 3 in1 oil and thats done just fine for me.pl
Been using the Lubes listed with great results. I put allot of rounds out of my pistols every week and this stuff works very well.
KG-5 Trigger Lube : ( been using this on my triggers and internals for at least two years )
This stuff will make a new factory trigger feel like it has been worked over. I do my trigger jobs so that the trigger feels like two pieces of glass rubbing together with oil between them. I add this to the sear and trigger bar and it seriously reduces friction that might still be in play.
KG-10 Micro Moly Dry Lube : Use this on the barrel lugs, rails and mag retention bar. It uses a liquid impregnated with Moly Powder. The liquid evaporates and leaves a coating of Moly which is slicker than an grease of Oil that I have used which end up breaking down and leaking out all over.
KG-11 Moly Grease : Use this on the Bolt and Action on my Savage FP10LE-2.
All of these products hold up very well in heat and Humidity down here in Florida.
I'm going to recomend this one.. something called hamdaisites.. Guess this was gov funded from NASA made out of a space age polymer paste which will handle 'reentry' from orbit.. Sounds a bit on the high end price is like $900 an ounce..
pretty soon Mobil One will be $900 a quart............VOTE THE BASTARDS OUT! I keep getting reelection propaganda from 'Hatch', I wouldn't piss on him if he was on fire, nor have I ,or will I, I want to see that motherfucker kicking turds down the highway, he is a good example of BAD Government
or other synthetic based motor oil is around $8 a quart and doesn't burn off. I've been using it for about 6 months on my AR's and I've noticed less carbon on the bolt
Awesome. That's good to know. I got about 5qts. of Mobil 1 in the garage that I've had since I used to change my own oil. (years ago, it just ain't worth it anymore). I've been wondering what I'll ever use it for.
Make sure its synthetic not conventional
motor oil as a gun lube?seriously?are you thinning it with another oil or running it straight and what weight are you using?
yeah people run all kinds of things.
Cliff Walsh uses a Motor - Tranny mixture on his revolvers. Billy uses 50 SAE on his Mac 10's.
I know a number of guys shooting comp and also that have been collecting and shooting class III weapons for years that make use of whatever it is they decide is right for them.
Personally, I figure that if they come out with a finish that allows it to be run dry someone would find a reason to call it crap.
I stick with what I use and like. KG Industries products have never ever failed me and I am very happy with them.
Slick 50 is a PTFE (Teflon is a trade marked word otherwise they would say Teflon instead of PTFE which is the Acronym for the Chemical Name of Teflon) impregnated lube and works very well for it's purposes. I doubt that a firearm is going to be doing anything more abusive to it's lubrication abilities than Rod Bearings running at 6500 rpm.
no,i wouldn't think there is a gun out there that would need more than any engine.makes sense to use an automotive lube,i just haven't heard of it before.ive heard of using tray fluid in hydraulics (same thing basically) and i run mobil1 atf in the case of my cr500 just has never occurred to me that motor oil,or the like would be a good gun lube.oh,and thanks for the info on ptfe,didn't realize teflon was exactly the same thing.learning good stuff today.
I prefer when it comes to my guns. Doing a lot of research myself on what I want to use but this page helped me get some ideas of what to try and check into.
says "gun oil" on the label you have the right stuff. I let the engineers do all the messing around with different lubes. The oils on the market today are more than adequate and won't mess up your gun.
I'm going to guess only mr motor Hamp does.. Not sure i'd put up big bucks on that one, when you can get oil, filter, and a mark jacob handbag for 19.95 just about anywhere.. Nope, Glorias impala gets the cheap oil, i spend some bucks on the Duramax.. Don't change oil on Red as it burns enough (quarter million miles) that i figure it does its own change over..
its a loosing bet, that one.
I've built and raced a good part of my life. I don't race anymore and I haven't built a car in almost three years, but I still do my own work.
Only reason my wifes car got screwed up was she was bound and determined that it had to go to the dealer for scheduled maintenance.
Solid Lifters do not collapse.
Slick 50 contains PTEF ( Teflon ) whic is why it functions the manner in which it does...
Some like it and some don't..But that doesn't mean shit and it sure as hell doesn't mean I have any reason to lie...
Proud of you for doing it.. out of the question for me to do it, even if i had an easy disposal for the oil.. I wouldn't save that much on the wifes V6, but would save some on the duramax.. not enough to do it tho.. i do batterys, windshield wipers, and lights.. the rest i leave to pro's..
actually getting rid of old motor oil isn't that hard if you know someone running a diesel and is cutting their fuel with it. Bunch of sub contractors and Lawn Maintenance guys down here doing that to cut back on Fuel costs.
Targets from the above gun are now posted at this link. http://www.gunslot.com/pictures/pt1911-target-1-15-yards
I dos till change my own oil in all of my vehicles. I have a friend who uses an oil burner to heat his shop so by donating oil to him all year long he lets me use his shop quite often.
you shoot on your own property or have a range close by?
Reason I ask, I was thinking about maybe driving down that way on a weekend and leaving early enough to stay until late afternoon. Do some shooting, if it's on your property or the range allows rifles also, I can see about bringing down some steel plates and the Sig 556, Ruger SR556, M1A, Savage and a couple of 22 rifles for the steel.
Pistols and 22's on steel isn't bad on it, but what I have isn't AR plate so anything more than that and it would beat it to death.
anyway.. let me know if you 'd like to hook up and pop some cans and such...
I shoot at a local indoor range which only allows pistols. There is also an Outdoor Range http://police.amarillo.gov/?page_id=33 but I haven't actually gone to this one yet. I do have a friend with some land about 20 miles from Amarillo that is pretty good about letting people go out there and shoot. But he only lets people do it when he is around. Definetly sounds like something that I would be interested in but as or firght now it would probably have to wait til it gets closer to summer time. I very rarely have free time at the moment. For example today I had an hour of spare time so I went to the indoor range. As soon as I get some spare time I'll give you heads up or if you KNEW for sure when you wanted to do it I might be able to make some plans.
I'd like to spend some time on it for sure and the yearly rate is a good buy if you spend any time on the range too.
One thing I hate about Florida is that most of the really nice long ranges are out in the middle of no where and that generally means swamps and such being near by so you tend to get ate up much of the year...
Allows rifles. Price is $14.00 for 3 hours which sounds pretty good. The indoor range is $14.50 for an hour.
let me know when some time comes up, summer is fine.
Check and see if your friend wouldn't like to go to his property and shoot a full auto or two.
He would just need to pick up some 223/556 to shoot, couple of friends would probably be up for bringing out their FNC's and maybe a MAC 10 45 acp.
If not, we can hit any range you like.
Just give me a heads up when you've the time and I'll make sure I get down there. Or if you can get up here the 1000 yard range at Manatee which isn't more than an hour or so out from you costs $18.00 for all day and there is a number of ranges there. Including Pistol, Shotgun, Cowboy, Calss III Full Auto, 100 yards out to 1000 yards for Rifle.
My range is $12.00 for the day Pistols and 22 rifles, but it is only 25 yards and indoors.
The other WAC is 100 yards, 50, 25 pistols or rifles $20.00 for the day all day and there is actually a pretty cool Arcade style 22 range like you would find on the Board Walk up in Jersey back in the old days. Little moving steel Ducks and such you pop down, whole bunch of different spinners, texas stars and such.
For some reason I was thinking you lived in Sebring... lol
Yeah, that would be a long drive for sure from Tampa Bay!!
guess that is out for now
I was wondering about that. I was actually about to send you a PM asking if you had moved or had work/vacation planned for this are.
Wife is wanting to go somewhere, which is why I mentioned a Gunslot get together a while back. Still keeping that in mind. As long as it is somewhere that her and my daughter can go do some sight seeing together, she is ok with me being trigger happy with the guys for a few days.
I honestly was thinking you where living down south of me for some reason.